The exterior/wheels/headlights, interior, windows/windshield are almost untouched. I will say ... 10k miles?

 

15k?

 

26k?

 

80k

 

You really need to show the drivers seat bolster for a good mileage est. I am going with less than 60k.
What a great find. Copart - a true seekers tools

 

Answer: 21k miles. For a car that I won at auction for less than 3k that's ridiculous...

 

wow, what was the extent of the flood damage/rust? I don't see anything horrific from the pictures you posted.

 

So I had a picture of the starter somewhere... Not sure where it went but the first time I tried starting her up the power steering pump kicked on right away with the key on, also could not read anything with my OBD2 reader, so the ECU was fried from the saltwater. Attempted to engage the starter, you could hear the battery draw and the solenoid inside of the starter click, however no rotation. I had a spare starter from a parts car laying around, I removed the old starter and found that it was completely seized, the arm would not extend and I could not spin the gear by hand or with a pliers. Put in the other starter, starter engaged with the key, plugs out, no moisture found inside of the engine.

Changed the oil on both the transmission and engine, both oils were very very fresh, no water content. No evidence of water making it past the air filter, so I didn't bother removing the intake to check for water.

Had two ECUs flashed by Paul Hibbs via the spyder chat Facebook group, reprogrammed the keys to the ECU, engine fired after the first second of cranking... Friggin nuts...

Had lots of running noise though, one of the running noises being the throwout bearing. I changed that in one night except I kind of buggered up the passenger side CV shaft seal which I am going to try and replace tonight or tomorrow. The other noise once I fixed the TOB noise was the tensioner pulley. After replacing that the engine runs as quiet as it can be.

Put on a header that I gutted the pre-cats out of, planned on selling the 21k mile header from the car to someone who may need it to pass inspection. While I had the header off to remove the transmission and everything I found water sitting in the midpipe, did the right thing and just shoved a vacuum down the mid-pipe for a few minutes and sucked out a decent amount of water.

The exhaust does have some rust spots pretty much everywhere, and while the car was running at the beginning was putting out some rusty water, but that seems to have subsided.

Hardest part about this car is my wife is very opinionated... She did not like the peanut butter interior and soft top right away, wanted me to change over the top and interior from Spyder #5.

Thankfully now she's kind of come around on it and is willing to keep the peanut butter around. Hopefully part of the reasoning is because I told her it's pretty much sacrilege to take the car apart as she sits and change her from OEM with so few miles on her.

 

I suggest that you inspect harness connectors that could have been immersed. They will corrode rapidly with voltage applied, and you might save a lot of future trouble by disconnecting the battery, washing the connectors thoroughly, and leaving them powered off until they are completely dry.

 

Happy to see that you were able to save this one! It?s far too nice to have gone to a salvage yard.

 

I don't know what the spray is that you are thinking of, but I would wash the salt out. If you don't, then whenever you have a humid day the corrosion is going to start up again. If I need to do a fast wash and dry, I use alcohol. If you don't have a time limit, then water and air dry should be just fine.

I strongly recommend keeping the battery disconnected until your salt water remediation is done. Most of the water related damage to electronics happens when people turn the gadget on to see if it still works.

 

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I have been using ?corrosion block? marine magic spray for a few decades. I?m convinced it solves and avoids trouble with bad connections. It proved its worth on my old Jaguar with lots of crappy bullet connectors.

 

For a quick update beins the thread is revived somewhat.




Pulled her out of storage last night from the in-laws. The battery was dead because I wasn't able to disconnect the battery over the winter because the cable that leads to the rear deck lid latch is seized. Knocked out the upper grill to reach my hand in and pop the deck lid free. Got it jumped and drove home and put on a tender.

Drove it for half an hour today around town, she is about to roll over to 23,000 mi. Needs an alignment and while driving car was shaking due to some wheel flat spots... Decided to look at the date code as I was sitting still at a friend's place.

And I think these are the original tires...






Date codes of 2001, which is this car's model year.

 

My unscientific theory:

No crack on center console behind the e-brake = not driven for long sessions = low miles

 

Car covers aren?t OEM either.